Platinum Jewelry


Platinum is a very rare and valuable metal, prized for its hardness and bright white lustre. It is rarer than gold and, because of its hardness and density, is more difficult for craftsmen to work with. This is reflected in the price and comparative scarcity of platinum jewelry: you will not see racks of platinum chains in department stores along with the racks of gold chains.

Because of its hardness and ability to retain its shape under stress, platinum is used to make the claw settings in gold rings. Its popularity has increased in the 20th century as methods for extracting and working it have been developed, but it is still considerably more difficult to work with than gold or silver. It was unavailable for use in jewelry in the 1920s and pre-war period, so very little antique platinum jewelry is available. The popularity of white gold dates back to the days when platinum was unavailable and white gold was used as a substitute in jewelry.

Platinum does not have to be mixed with other metals to harden it because its hardness is already high. However, it is often mixed with small amounts of similar metals, including other metals in the same chemical group (rhodium, iridium, palladium, ruthenium, and osmium), as well as cobalt and copper. Jewelry in the United States can be labeled as platinum jewelry if it contains at least 950 parts per thousand of platinum (in other words, if it is 95% pure platinum).

Platinum jewelry is often rhodium plated to give it a highly reflective shine. When platinum jewelry does not have this rhodium plating, it can develop a slightly golden patina, which some people find attractive and which complements more traditional jewelry. For the most modern jewelry designs, the bright finish of the rhodium plating is usually desired. Platinum is more resistant to chemical attack than silver and even gold, and the rhodium plating is also resistant.

Platinum is often used in jewelry containing diamonds and other highly reflective precious stones whose color matches the white metal. Its high value and distinctive brightness make it less suitable for use with semiprecious and opaque stones.

Because platinum is so much harder than gold, platinum rings will damage gold rings if they are worn such that they come into contact with each other. A platinum engagement ring must be paired with a platinum wedding ring, not a white gold one, nor should a platinum ring be worn on a finger adjacent to one wearing a gold or silver ring. The metals may appear similar, but they are not.

Despite the Duchess of Windsor's confident assertion that "Every fool knows that with daytime clothes one wears gold and with evening clothes platinum," platinum jewelry is very much in fashion for day wear, especially the modern pieces which complement business and leisure wear alike. However, with its ability to set off the most precious gemstones to such great advantage, platinum will always be in demand for jewelry to wear on the most formal occasions.